Stupid. That is the single word that comes to mind when I think of driving in India. To be quite honest, I am hella-glad that my company was willing to pay for me to have a driver while I am out here. It makes me so glad, that I, in a rare act, used “hella-” to modify an adjective. Before I get on with this blog about what it is like to drive in India, I need to pull a Hilary Duff and come clean on something. At the end of the last blog, I said that I went to bed on my first night ready to begin my India adventure the following day. Well, for the sake of efficient story telling, that was a bit of a white lie. A white lie though, really isn't that bad, right? I mean, white is right, you know? Orrrr, uhh... Apparently I forgot to leave white supremacist Joe back in the States.
In all seriousness though, my first actual day here was spent trying to adjust to the ten and a half hour time difference. I pretty much had to reverse my entire sleep pattern because of it. The first night I was awake until about 6:30AM (8:00PM at home) and slept until about 4:30PM (6:00AM at home). I got up, checked out what was on the television, had some dinner, and then was right back in bed a little before 10:00PM (11:30AM at home). I woke up at 5:30AM (7:00PM at home) the next morning, ready to truly start my India adventure. I find that just adding 1.5 hours to my current time and flip-flopping the AM and PM works the best for converting back to Eastern Standard Time. It is way easier than subtracting ten and a half hours, for real. If I convert from AM to PM, I know it is still yesterday at home and if I convert from PM to AM, it is the same day here and home.
I met up with my co-worker for breakfast and we discussed what was on the schedule to be completed at work that day. We wrapped up eating, I headed back up to my room for a few, then it was time to go to work. We walked outside under the canopy and informed this man out at a podium of the room number our car was registered under. A white Ford Ikon pulled around under the canopy and a man dressed in all white got out and opened the doors for us and put our laptop bags in the trunk. The man in white hopped back into the driver seat and pulled around to the big metal gate at the exit of the hotel. A guard opened it and the stupidity began.
So, this car is coming down the road that the hotel is on. He is driving fast and... Our driver pulls out in front of the guy. Seriously!? This is where I wish my keyboard had the interrobang symbol. The interrobang, for those unaware of the grammar hispters who tried to make it an official punctuation mark in the 60's, is a marriage of the exclamation point and the question mark. Imagine that the exclamation point and the question mark were sharing the same dot and the rest of the symbol overlapped. Or you could not use your imagination and look at the picture at the end of the blog. I decided not to include the picture immediately after this paragraph so you would have to use your imagination when I said “Imagine” at the beginning of my sentence a little earlier. I, in a subtle way, just had mind control over you. I had mind control in the same way I think I have mind control over people when I am at a stop light and I inch forward a little bit. Then I glance in my rearview mirror and watch the person behind me begin to inch forward once I come to a stop. Pwned, sucker.
Right, so this guy is barreling down the road, coming straight at us, and our driver pulls out. The guy swerves and honks his horn a number of times, but nothing other than that. The guy didn't look at our driver and give him the whole hand, nor did he stare at him with his mouth agape. Nope, he just honked his horn a few times, didn't bother to look at the “idiot” that just cut him off, and continued on his merry way. I laughed nervously as I realized we had just avoided a car accident. Jeff, my traveling companion, was unfazed. I thought that was curious, but eventually I would learn there was nothing to be curious about.
We rounded a corner down a little alleyway and to a busier street. We turned left onto the next street that took us behind the hotel. This is where some of the slums/high-population housing is. It makes you amazed that people live this way – a way that I'll get to in another blog. I'm going to continue on with this blog for now about the Stupid. I call driving the Stupid in the same way I began calling this auxiliary piece of equipment to one of our pieces of equipment at the plant the Broken because, well, it was broken. It was so broken, that it was fixed once, we found out it was still broken, fixed it again, and it might be broken again as far as I know. Let me wrap up this portion of the story by saying that the Broken was by no means my or any of my co-worker's fault. I am pretty sure someone just decided it might be a good idea to hit it with a forklift while driving haphazardly around the plant.
If you have experienced the glaringly obvious difference in Ohio highways to Michigan highways (a perfect example being the drastic change on I-75 at the border), you have an idea of how jarring the sudden change can be. Here, road quality is just bad everywhere. It actually makes me realize just how much beating a car can take. We have hit potholes worse than anything I have ever seen back home. We have driven across medians to get to another road we needed to be on. Every time it sounds like the frame of the car just cracked, or surely at least the car bottomed out. But no, the car just keeps on chugging along like a trooper. Oh, and is that a tree growing out of the road? Yes, yes it is. At least they painted a black and white checker pattern around part of the trunk to make it more visible and help you avoid it.
Suddenly I hear what sounds like a cross between farting and the Hamster Dance. A small yellow rickshaw, called an auto, zooms up next to me. It is a three-wheeled little cart that steers like a scooter. The tailpipe is a measly three-quarters of an inch in diameter (this probably accounts for the farting while listening to the Hamster Dance effect). There is a backseat for passengers and a sticker reminding the driver that this auto runs on LPG (liquified petroleum gas) instead of diesel or regular gas. He doesn't have any passengers at the moment and I sure didn't want to be one in there. Who would? Have you seen the traffic out there? Of course, on another one of my adventures, I would get brave enough to become a passenger in one of the autos.

After driving down a street lined with autos, people walking around aimlessly, some of them brushing their teeth, and seeing a few dogs chase each other around, we made another quick left and returned to an intersection on the same road our hotel was on. It was time to make a right. Now, the only reason I knew this was the road our hotel was on was because I had a reasonable enough understanding of the area and the spatial ability to figure it out. If I would have been looking for a street sign to figure out that this was the same road, this quest would have ended in miserable failure. No street signs, no problem. At least not for the ridiculous number of people on the road.
The ridiculous number of people on the road, you say? Yeah, the ridiculous number of people on the road, I say. When you pull up to an intersection in India, forget about lanes. Sure, sometimes the good folks of IDOT (India Department of Transportation – I doubt it is actually called that to tell you the truth. Heck, I doubt there is even a remotely organized department dedicated to transportation here. Why? Because to have a remotely organized department of transportation, you should have a remotely organized set of roads to drive on. India does not) paint lines to try to make unwitting people from slightly more developed countries think there are rules to follow, but there aren't. I just included an entire paragraph's worth of information in a set of parentheses. What other blog can you find that in?
So you pull up to an intersection and suddenly it is a mad dash to try to find a spot to wait in. This road may technically be a six lane road (three going one way, three the other), but you are going to see a whole lot more than three cars jamming into those lanes on either side. One, two, three, sometimes four people all jammed on a motorcycle will navigate between cars in any open spots they can find to get the optimal starting position when the light turns green again. And that's another funny thing, the traffic lights. I still cannot figure out when it is and when it is not necessary to obey the traffic signals. My driver has gone through red lights, stopped at red lights, but has never stopped at green lights. Apparently stop lights here are like STOP signs that have white borders around them: they are optional. He has stopped for a traffic cop holding a wand with red blinking LEDs up and down the sides though.
Packed like sardines is the perfect phrase for sitting at a stop light on the roads. It's amazing how well these drivers know their vehicle dimensions. For example, my driver has his passenger side mirror turned in, so that means he is not using it. His rearview mirror is pointed right at his face. I am pretty sure he cannot see out the back window at all. Does it matter though? Not really. They say in America to always practice defensive driving and be aware of your surroundings. In India, they must tell you to practice offensive driving and if there is someone else near you, they will probably honk.
The honking, it's going to haunt me for years. Around 5:30AM you will hear a honk. Thirty seconds later, another honk. Eventually, 6:00AM rolls around and you hear a honk every two to three seconds. Wait until about 7:00AM and there's constant honking. Back home, honking is to let someone know they did something or are about to do something stupid and also to honk “hello” to Ricky when you see him on the sidewalk (that's a Mitch Hedberg reference if you are counting). Here, honking is to make people aware of their surroundings. If you are going to pass a dump truck, you honk. If you are going to pass someone and you are in their blind spot, you honk. If you have nothing better to do, you honk, because, well, if you weren't honking, it just wouldn't sound the same in India. Best I can tell, about half of the drivers here really care if a nearby driver is honking. They will take heed and get back into their “lane” (read: area of the road) if they hear you honk. Other people, they just cut you off. Usually this applies to buses and dump trucks because they are bigger than the cars. The car I was in was one time run off the road and into the grass by a dump truck that just didn't care.
Speaking of not caring, I'll drop the inevitable Fight Club reference again when Tyler Durden says “calm as Hindu cows.” That guy was not lying. Cows are pretty much allowed to do whatever they want here. They can also go wherever they want. Would you like to know where “wherever” is? Sure you would. “Wherever” could easily mean the street. Cows stand or sit in the road without a care in the world. Maybe they found a jackpot of trash that also happens to have some food in it. Or maybe they just found some paper that also seems to be delicious. Cows just don't care in India because they don't have to. You probably have a much better chance of being involved in a human vs. automobile car accident than you ever would a cow vs. automobile accident.
Let's pretend you are driving down the road at 50 km/h because that's about the fastest you will ever go. The average speed I probably drive home at is 20 km/h which is sluggishly slow. So, you are driving in India and then this group of cows with this blank look in their eyes just walk out onto the road. Cows ALWAYS have this blank look in their eyes. I have tried to examine their eyes as we pass them and I cannot make out any whites in their eyes. They are like a pit of black blankness. Oh, and their mouths NEVER stop chewing either. This group of cows with blank looks on their face walk out on the road chewing and chewing and chewing. You have three options: 1) stop, 2) swerve, or 3) honk. My guess, if you were Indian, you are going to do a combination of 1 and 3. Swerving likely isn't an option because there is still a good chance you could hit that cow.


Now, let's pretend you are no longer in that car. You are trying to cross the road in India. You are trying to cross four lanes of traffic and here comes six cars abreast down the road. What is going to happen? Well, three cars will ultimately win a game of chicken with the other cars and quickly zoom ahead to cut off the other drivers and swerve around you. Two of the cars just missed clipping you by two inches. The other three cars that lost the game of the Stupid chicken, will quickly slam on their brakes, begin to cut their wheel to make a move around you but have to stop completely. Next, you are gonna get glares and, you guessed it, a barrage of honks. A barrage of honks directed at you and only you. But really, this is all your fault in the first place because you decided to jaywalk in India. Bad idea, friend.
After a while, all the quick maneuvering, close calls, cutting people off, being cut off, and nearly being run off the road becomes commonplace in your mind. This is why I should not have found it curious that Jeff was unfazed by us pulling out in front of another car when first leaving the hotel. I have been privileged to have three different drivers out here and each has a slightly different profile of driving abilities. My main guy Ramesh Babu (who is the man, by the way) is very aggressive. He will find a way to magically fit his car anywhere it needs to be. Two buses with what appears to be four and a half feet between them. No problem at all, that car is going to fit. Now, my usual substitute driver is a little bit more cautious and a bit older. I've found after getting used to Ramesh's driving style that I was getting frustrated with the substitute's driving. Normally in America, I would be furious if I got cut off, plus I would never dream of cutting someone off. Here, I find myself rooting for our driver to cut people off. If I see a spot that I think the car may be just small enough to fit in, I'm thinking “Go for it! Who cares if we are trying not to get squished between a dump truck and large concrete barrier?”
The thing is, with all of the crazy driving here, there are a surprisingly low number of accidents. The Indian culture is just exceptionally good at seeing what is ahead of them in the road and avoiding it, even if it just so happens to be oncoming traffic. Yep, I have even been in the car driving straight into oncoming traffic for several kilometers and I have lived to tell about it. Needless to say, Indians are probably really good at the video games in the Burnout series. I guess they have been slightly helped by these random signs the Chennai Traffic Police have put in the road that say “Caution: Accident Prone Area.” Then again, these signs were placed right in the middle of the road and you must swerve to avoid them. Best I can figure out, these signs would cause more accidents than prevent them, but I digress.
To sum up: Driving in India, it's stupid.
Blog 7: “they found a jackpot of trash” Deleted Scenes:
I have seen signs that say “Wear Helmet to Avoid Death” here. That's good to know. If you see this guy coming,

just put on your helmet and you'll be A-okay.
Here is a video I took of driving in India. This video doesn't do it justice, you really need to be here to get it. There is certainly a lack of honking and swerving and general chaos that I was unable to capture.
Say hello to the interrobang.